Day 28 – O´Cebreiro to Triacastela — 21 km

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O’Cebreiro is the start of the Galician Province on the Camino.  This village is located at 1,300 m altitude, between the mountain ranges of O Courel and Os Ancares.

I slept in a little this morning as there was no rush and I wanted to enjoy the views on the way down.  From the O Cebreiro Municipal Albergue two routes can be taken, a path starting from the Albergues door or the original path, going down to the main road and continuing on it until Liñares (about 3 km). I opted for the path rather than the main road.  The path was a little rocky and unbeknown to me what was meant to be down hill continued to be up hill.  After a series of steep climbs and descents, I reached the high grounds of San Roque (1,270 metros) where there is a statue of a pilgrim keeping a weather eye on the valley.

Statue of a pilgrim keeping a weather eye on the valley

I enjoyed breakfast in Hospital (this is where Shereez, Jess and Kristin spent the night and apparently was not that great).  Breakfast offered another great catch up with Melissa, Zac, Shaan and Claire.  I was feeling rather flush and flu-ish and Claire kindly offered me some of her medication that she had brought along.  A group of people they knew had been bitten by bed bugs and one of the ladies was in bad shape with hectic swelling.  Luckily I had some cortisone cream I was treating my rash with at the start of the Camino and was able to help her out until she got to a doctor.  Some people have a bad reaction to the bed bugs.

After leaving Hospital there is a beautiful church typical of the area made of stone and with an austere style.   The marked path (with yellow arrows constantly appearing on the road) now had  markers every 500 metres indicating the distance to Santiago.  Not sure I liked this as I wanted the Camino to last for as long as possible and now I was being reminded every 500 meters how close I was getting to Santiago.  The path continued along a stream which I enjoyed as the flow of water is a huge energizer for me.  Oh goodness then the uphill started again to the high grounds of Poio and apparently this is the highest point of the Camino and not the Cruz de Ferro as I recently blogged about.   The village Fonfria was beautiful and a popular stop for pilgrims along the way.  This was an ideal place for a coffee and rest.   I enjoyed the spectacular view while sipping a cafe con leche.  The Koreans who found love on the Camino joined me and it is one of the priceless joys of the Camino, the camaraderie that walking the same walk inspires in such disparate groups of people.   The two Korean’s – Minghe, Airime and I can barely find a language in common but we travel roughly the same stages and so have found ways to communicate.  It can be draining at times however today just having them in my space was pleasant.

The Korean’s – Minghe and Airime – they found love on the Camino

The way down was stony and my feet hurt badly again.  (Just a reminder I am still walking in my sandals and the sandals offer no cushioning to the feet and therefore my soles are taking strain but there is no ways I am putting these feet back into my shoes to start the blister process again!!)


I arrived at the planned overnight destination rather late and the municipal Albergue was full.  Shereez had been in touch earlier to warn me as they too did not get into the municipal albergue and were forced to go private.  Luckily the three of them were keeping me a bed.  The small, but longish, town of Triacastela, was packed with pilgrims and I was only too grateful to get a bed in a spotless, spacious Albergue at the end of the village which made for a nice end to the walking day.  The Albergue was 250 years old run by an elderly man who radiated a warmth that one just felt so welcomed.  He even carried my back pack up the stairs for me.  It was also great meeting up with Shereez, Jess and Kristin again.  Jess had not heard from Debbie (her mom ) for a few days and I too was wondering how Debbie was doing and coping on the Camino.  After obligatory washing duties we decided to cook pasta and enjoyed a yummy early dinner. (Thanks Jess your cooking skills are great)!!  After dinner I decided to go sit at a bar on a busy walkway to see if I could see people I knew coming in. I was missing familiar faces with all the newcomers on the trail :-(

Private Albergue in Triacastela

Within half an hour  Jacob and his mom and some pilgrims they had met joined me for a catch up. Camino friendships are easily made and are one of the many reasons it is a special type of journey.  I spent the late afternoon, early evening chatting over a few beers with new friends.  As I see the end of the Camino draw nearer I am trying to ensure I appreciate these last few days as much as I can.  One of the French had summarized his view of the Camino as — “The Pilgrimage to Santiago is a journey Universality in which we all feel as one and each feels a part of a small travelling universe, beyond the confines of nationalism”.

Hopped into bed – whoop, only 6 of us in the room, 5 females and 1 male – lets hope this is going to be a good night!!!  Wondering where and how Randy is doing, where and how Debbie is doing, where and how Carstens is doing, where and how Marc is doing, where and how Rita and Anthony are doing, where and how Angie and her two daughters – Sabrina and Jessica are doing, where and how Timmy is doing, where and how Emily and James are doing – they too found love on the Camino,  ………..and how my girls are doing back home!!

Wonder how old this tree is?

On I walk…….
Below a tiny waterfall – the small “beauties” in life we so often miss because we are in a constant rush!!
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  • Mike

    Cant hold my breath any longer. Need new blogg please to complete my trip with you. Been facinating. Thank you for the time and effort to blogg all this for us and just keep on truckin. Lol Mike N

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