Day 29 – Triacastela to Sarria — 25 km

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Pitch dark when we left Triacastela this morning

SHITBALLS!!!  We had an animal in our room last night again, the snoring was so bad none of us could sleep.  No sleeping tablets left – shitballs, shitballs, shitballs!!  You can get a 600mg pain-killer and an antibiotic over the counter in Spain but you cannot get a sleeping tablet.  Does not make sense!!  The entire room did not sleep.  Jess and Kristen eventually moved out the room and tried to sleep in the dinning room, Shereez sat on the internet and I tossed and turned.  Eventually at 04h00 we decided shitballs – let’s get out of here and walk!!!  It was pitch dark and one of my fears is the “dark”!! At home I always have a light or two on in the house – the house is never in total darkness.  Not only do I have woesie feet, I am shitless scared of the dark as well!!  On the way out of Triacastela there are two routes taking you to Sarria – our stop over for the night.  One route going through San Xil and another through Samos. The route of Samos diverts to the South through the surroundings of the River Sarria, offering beautiful scenery and numerous examples of popular Galician architecture. It then goes to the Monastery of Samos, one of the oldest in the West (6th century) and from there to the town of Samos.  The route via Samos is 8 km longer than the alternative route but the monastery was an attraction and I was planning to take this route today BUT because of the animal in our room and leaving so early I opted to walk with Shereez, Jess and Kristin as I had no head light and was not ready to conquer my fear of the dark alone!!  San Xil is shorter however a lot steeper.  I am so done with climbing steep mountains / hills that my energy was not in a good place this morning.  The lack of sleep did not help the situation.  In fact we were all a little edgy and only had two head lights between the four of us.  We battled to find the arrows and took the wrong road.  It felt wrong from the start and I  should have trusted my gut, I eventually said, guys let’s go back and stick to the road this way we know we will get to San Xil, the others agreed and we turned back to get on the road.   Once on the road I calmed down a little and kept telling myself, it is what it is and I have a choice – I can enjoy the day or continue to be grumpy.  I was not showing my mood, totally internalized it and was upset with myself as I wanted to go the other way and see the Monastery.   Eventually we found some arrows which confirmed we were on the right road and onto a natural path to start the climb.   The climb was HECTIC again but being with Shereez made it fun and loads of laughter was enjoyed along the way.

Above the clouds San Xii

It turned out to be a wonderful cool morning with plenty of morning mist around – a trait of Galicia – as so much moist air comes directly in from the Atlantic Ocean, and settles in the mountains and hills around the Camino walking paths . The mist made the country side wonderfully fresh, with mellow and soft colours all around. The country side here in Galicia is very wooded and on a bright sunny day (not today for us) the pilgrims are well protected from the sun as the Camino goes through woodlands, mainly consisting of oak and chestnut trees, both providing ample shade for the pilgrims.  I was suddenly so grateful for the snoring as I was able to experience a beauty I would never have seen had I not embarked on the walk at 04h00 this morning.  The sun rise was amaze balls.  Being above the clouds created the most amazing feeling within and from thereon it didn´t take me long to get into a rhythm and enjoy the walk.    Not only did the physical walking get into a rhythm fairly quickly, but so did my internal feeling and thinking processes as well. It is amazing how the physical and the internalspheres seem to follow a common rhythm, which provided a wonderful space for thinking and feeling.  As I walked along I all of a sudden smelt this wonderful scent and realised it came from a gumtree – a single gumtree amongst the oak trees and it gave out the strongest scent.  Gumtrees will get more common as we walk along towards the coast – but so far it is the first and the only one I have seen.   The mist was with us most of the day and I often found myself standing still and taking in the wonderful nature surrounding me.  The four of us continued to walk together until Pintin were we stopped for coffee.  It was great being with the group again and once again coffee was filled with great laughs and memories.  Shereez was only too happy to finally get her rain poncho out her back pack and wear it.  She had been carrying it for 29 days!! It was rather funny as she was the only pilgrim kitted out in her rain poncho which covered her from head to toe.  It was misty but not raining!!  Jess and I landed up walking a long way together and spoke about the Camino and our experience thus far.  The beauty of the morning left me with a feeling of wonderment and joy and I am so happy I was able to turn the energy for myself as I could have ruined the day.

The mist – first slight drizzle on the Camino

I felt absolutely great as I arrived at Sarria.  We got in early and the municipal Albergue only opened at 13h00, it was 11h00 and I opted not to sit and wait in a queue so decided to go private.  The private Albergues are normally ready to take pilgrims in at 11h00.  The others decided to wait in the queue.  There is so much to see in Sarria and I did not want to waste anytime.   There was a Spaniard at the Albergue who had so many blisters on his feet, that I lost count.  I was only too happy that my blisters had healed.  He had  just started the Camino a couple of days ago, so the damage seems to happen within the first few days, as the body gets used to the hard work – day in and out.

The trio in Sarria

Private Albergue – Mayor

Sarria is a stunning little city.  I walked and walked and walked through the streets of Sarria stopping at numerous bars to enjoy a cafe con leche.  Bumped into Lydia and her mom from Germany who were on their way back to their Albergue to cook lunch.  Decent supermarkets and we  go on a shopping spree of buying food and fruit.  I have actually been impressed with the range of gluten-free offerings in the bigger cities.  Great variety and hope Santiago will offer the same variety so I can stock up for home.  The four of us met up for dinner, drinking sangria for 1 euro (yummy) and ate the most divine hamburger.  We all literally swallowed our burgers they were so yummy and so cheap – costing only 2 euros.

Road out of Sarria to Portomarin

View of Sarria

On I walk…..

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  • Mike

    I cant cope any more. my suspenders are stretched to the limit and you now cant walk the extra 50 kms. Dont forget we were walking with you. My feet got blisted also came out in sympathy with every step you took and now they better cos its been such a long time since you been a pilgrim. Dont let me hold my breath waiting ok might strech my poop string. Now be a good girl and finish this pilgramage.OK enough now. PLEASE

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