Day 5 – Estella to Los Arcos – 21 kms

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Last night, we stayed in a municipal Albergue with 18 beds in the room.  The bunk beds were so old and cranky – they cranked and cracked and creeped and squeeck so much I hardly slept even with half a sleeping tablet in my system.  I am also gatvol of sleeping on a single bunk bed!!!.  The Albergue was filled and so many new faces we have not met or seen (where do all these people come from).  The rooms were very tight, and crowded but grateful I have a place to rest my exhausted body.  I am with great and interesting people which makes it all worthwhile and must admit the Camino experience thus far continues to be amazing.


Another long walk today and for the first time I can share not as difficult as the last few days in terms of hills (constant up up down up up up down) however still challenging in other ways.  Covering 21 kilometers with the last 10 kilometres in the blazing sun. The last few days a heat wave has hit Spain and we are feeling it ten fold on the Camino.  It has been 40 degrees plus.  The morning met us with a steep climb, that was gleefully interrupted by the famous El Camino ¨wine fountain¨where you can get not only water, but also wine! It´s put there by the local winery especially for the pilgrims – how awesome!

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There were two options to take after the wine fountain and we opted for the shorter route (by 2 km) however it turned out to be the more hilly route but as mentioned not nearly as bad as the last 4 days.  The descent was steady and slow (i.e. not too hectic on the knees).

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Arriving at Los Arcos, was seriously a highlight as we had no stops along the way today.  There were no shops open whatsoever!

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Los Arcos has the most beautiful cathedral – and the plaza in front of the catherdral comes alive after the Spanish siesta.  We booked into a private Albergue and our room only had 6 beds in it and a newly renovated bathroom – yes please!!  The first Albergue we have stayed in that included breakfast.  While Shereez and I were waiting for the internet we hear what we think is a typical Afrikaans accent , we both turn around to see a typical afrikaans South African – Magda!  It was her first day on the Camino and literally jumped with Joy when we introduced ourselves.  Ons het lekker gekuier vir n rukkie!!  3rd South African we have met along the way – absolutely bladdy fantastic.  Magda went to shower and later joined us for an ice cold beer in the plaza – yes I had a beer!!

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Shereez had an unfortunate experience this afternoon when we treated our selves to a foot massage at the municipal Albergue (thank goodness we did not book in for the night – not a great Albergue) – 100 pound note was stolen from her money bag and she thinks it was the masseuse.  We did not let it get to us and we just got on with exploring and enjoying Los Acros – which is a great place, very festive and vibey. Dinner with the crowd was also great and loads of laughter shared around the table while the vino tinto (red wine) flowed.

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I also experienced my first bout of emotions leaving Estella this morning, it was most weird, but embraced the tears and the feeling – not sure if it is pure exhaustion or truly deep rooted pain relating to my late step mother (Inez and Koren´s mom), Estelle (Estella so similar) brought back some memories that I did not need there and then and realised later on that  it was meant to be that way.  A beautiful white butterfly followed me for a short while and one wonders if that was symbolic of the emotions or not.  A good release and I felt relieved.  I suppose I have suppressed  many emotions about her over the years that I lived with her – today I can honestly say she has my utmost respect and I wish her nothing but peace on the other ¨side¨- xxx

Overall a great and enjoyable day – LOS ACROS – I will remember you forever!

Tonight, for Shereez and I –  I wish for a good nights rest and that we wake up with blisters healed and no aching souls!  ……and I wish Shereez’s 100 pound note is back in her money bag tomorrow!!

…on we walk!!

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  • Robster

    Sparks!!! WOW!!!! I must say girl, tired as you are, you still manage to blogg some really interesting articles! Not sure I could! If I were that tired, to heck with blogging lol, I admire what you doing and take my hat off chic! Well done! Keep the blogs coming……………, keep walking 🙂

    • sparkalot

      …on I walk!! Through all the hardship / toughness – I am learning so much about life and myself, loving this experience. 2.5 weeks to go then it is all over!!

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